19th June 2023 After our night out in Svolvær we were ready to leave this very touristy town, but first we had to visit North Norwegian Artist centre, which had a really nice exhibition and …
Connectionless in Trollfjord

Sailing and Cruising adventures in higher latitudes and British rivers and canals

19th June 2023 After our night out in Svolvær we were ready to leave this very touristy town, but first we had to visit North Norwegian Artist centre, which had a really nice exhibition and …

16th June 23 We are really enjoying the landscape in Lofoten and is not in a hurry to get to Tromsø as the wind does not look like a crossing to Svalbard the next week …

In Reine, Sarah’s spontaneous run to Reinebringen’s 1566 stone steps delayed the departure, but a chance meeting with Saphir’s owners eased concerns. Motor sailing to Nusfjord, the shallow harbor added excitement. Disappointed by the closed bakery, a walk through the historic town followed. Evading the coastguard, they anchored, and Sarah’s apple cake lifted spirits for an early start.

Eager to leave Bodø and its harbor struggles, they cherished the town’s culinary delights but lamented the amenities. Adjusting to Sarah’s organized chaos, Steve embraced a more vegetarian diet. Seizing a favorable wind across Vestfjorden, they sailed through Sørvær and reveled in a smooth journey, relishing memories as Lofoten emerged, offering grandiose Norwegian beauty.

Excited by sunny weather, they sailed comfortably, eventually marking the Arctic Circle with a memorable celebration. In Bodø, vibrant nightlife, a unique laundry experience, and a thrilling Saltstraumen rib safari featuring massive whirlpools and close encounters with eagles defined their day. A pizza dinner concluded the energizing day for the continued journey.

The past days brought tranquility as they motored towards Igerøya, embracing the sun amid perpetual daylight. Navigating shallow harbors, the landscape hinted at approaching northern realms. Disrupted eating and sleeping schedules ensued. Battling currents, a scenic anchorage was found, allowing a peaceful dinner in the cockpit. A dolphin sighting marked their serene departure.

Smoothly sailing to Brønnøysund, they passed the famous Torghatten rock with its photogenic hole, though clouds obscured the view. Attempting fishing, Steve’s speedy sailing sabotaged the effort. Opting for a restaurant in Brønnøysund, a delightful evening unfolded with Saphir, featuring a four-course dinner, wine, and a jovial return to the boat.

In Rørvik, they met Dutch sailors bound for Svalbard, joining the Northbound boats chat. A late lunch of fresh shrimp led to a grocery run. Despite perpetual daylight, Saphir hosted a ‘sundowner.’ Struggling with weather challenges, they faced rain and motored for another day. Undeterred, they maintained high spirits, enjoying the journey and new connections.

Leaving a cozy anchorage for another day of motoring, they unexpectedly caught good wind, reaching 6 knots. Cooking banana pancakes, the day slowed down with fog, limiting coastline views and requiring vigilance for hidden obstacles and boats. When the wind died after 35 miles, they called it a day in the heavy fog. The next morning, Sarah’s energetic run led to discovering intriguing wood carvings, adding a unique twist to their journey.

Setting off for another day of motoring through the captivating Norwegian channels, the day started with sunshine and mild winds. However, upon reaching the Norwegian Sea, turbulent swells took a toll on Ilse, forcing her to announce she couldn’t continue the trip due to seasickness. A somber final meal marked her departure amid a grey and rainy day.