Sarah Pedersen After the long pit stop in Reykjavík we decided to head North to explore the West coast. Our first stop was the little fishing harbour Ankranes, which is so secure you need a key to get off the pontoon. So you need to arrive at when the harbour master is around if you want to leave and explore. Luckily, he met us by the boat when we arrived and gave us the key.
A thing we have learned here in Iceland is that harbourmasters do not always respond on the VHF, but they are usually very aware that you are coming. At one harbour master’s office we saw that they were checking the boats on MarineTraffic. We have gotten into the habit of calling them on the telephone as we find it easier to get through to someone.
When we walked around Ankranes we got a little confused: All over the town there were Irish flags, so we started wondering if we had turned the wrong corner and arrived back in Ireland (We loved Ireland but that would have been a bit of a detour). However we learned that we had just missed a big festival celebrating the town’s Irish descent.
Of course Sarah seized the opportunity to visit the towns very nice swimming pool and really enjoyed the steam bath. While walking back along the lovely sandy beach, we saw an outdoor hot water shower, which would have allowed us for a swim in the ocean. Unfortunately we needed to depart for the next harbour so Sarah was sad to have missed this.
A dramatic entrance to Ólafsvík
After 2 nights in Akranes we saw the opportunity to sail on a good reach all the way up to Ólafsvík. It was another slightly wobbly and rainy sail, but everything was fine until we were about to drop the sails at Hellissandur. Suddenly the wind went from 20 to over 40 knots and we quickly had to drop the main and start the engine.
Coming into harbour at around 3 am we were tired and wet and had to moor onto a harbour wall covered with tires. The next 2 days were spent inside because of rain and a little too much wind while constantly adjusting the fenders and fender boards.
It didn’t stop Sarah from a quick visit to the local swimming pool. It was a quite good swimming pool, though one of the baths was shut and it lacked a cold water pool (or maybe she couldn’t find it). The sauna was the hottest she ever experienced and was a little scared that her ears would end up like pig’s ear dog snacks.
On day 3 the sun was out and it was possible to take a hike above the beautiful waterfall that overlooks the town. It was a very pretty and diverse hike with a clear trail in the beginning and then sticks marking the route across stones, moss and hills. However, the path had a clear ending as an electric fence and a waterfall made it impossible to reach the next mark.
The harbour master told us that he had watched our entrance on the surveillance camera as the weather had been that bad. He also told us, that a wind from South often creates problems as it gets magnified by the steep mountains and therefore creates dramatics changes in the wind, often more than double the forecast wind strength.
Continuing the Game of Thrones trail
We were checking the ice charts daily for Greenland but there was still too much ice for safe navigation so we decided that we had more time to explore Iceland.
We motored the short trip to Grundarfjörður, known for the iconic mountain Kirkjufell that we discovered was also another GOT filming location.
The weather was reasonable so we got the bikes out and explored the area. We also took the opportunity to fly the drone and film Kirkjufell and very dramatic 100 metres drop waterfall called Grundarfoss. You shouldn’t miss the chance to have a great coffee at Kaffi Valeria owned by a friendly Columbian guy.
This harbour had a very nice floating pontoon with electricity, which is much easier to work with than the tires on a harbour wall. Whilst that was great it is not only for yachts, but is also used for cruise ship tenders, which have first priority! But we had a couple days on it before we had the choice between the harbour wall or leaving. The harbour master here was very friendly and helpful and opened the toilets for the night in case the boats needed to use them.
Moving on to Stykkishólmur
Next stop was the main town in the area, Stykkishólmur known for an unusual looking church. This harbour also had a very nice floating pontoon with electricity. The harbour master here was also very friendly and came to welcome us and tell us where and when we could fill water. He also suggested we moved a little once a fishing boat had left so that we would avoid the worst of the swell expected in the harbour when the wind picked up overnight.
At this point we were feeling ready to leave to Greenland, but whilst ice conditions were improving the weather was not in our favour. So we decided to do what we do best – go to swimming pools and restaurants. It is a restless lifestyle waiting for the right wind and constantly planning to be ready.
The friendliest town – Ísafjörður
The wind was right for us to move further North to the West fjords of Iceland. On our way there we wanted to make a pitstop at Patreksfjörður harbour as the harbour guide told stories of a washing machine. We had had a wet sail and were approaching the harbour when the wind increased and the heavens opened. The guide and charts were unclear about where we should tie up so we took the easy and quick option of dropping anchor on the opposite shoreline. It was windy but the anchor dug in deep and we had a peaceful nights sleep.
The next morning we used our flare-cannister-washing-machine to wash a few things while we sailed further north. It is an eco friendly way to clean dirty clothes as the movement from the waves gives everything a really good agitation.
When entering into the fjord towards Ísafjörður you really feel the gradior of the icelandic nature. All of the area further North is a huge national park without any road access, luckily we arrived on a beautiful still evening.
Sailing into Ísafjörður harbour you have to keep clear of the fish farms that are placed in the middle of the entrance. We got a little surprised by these as the markings on the chart indicated they were towards the shore on either side (We have been told that they get moved around a bit). Arriving on a windless night the two mountains surrounding the little town were reflected in the water and looked amazing.
It is a popular harbour for boats waiting to go to Greenland so we decided to use a mooring buoy for the first few days until we could get a spot at the dock.
Sometimes its nice to be away from the harbour. In this popular tourist town there is a steady flow of cruise ship passengers looking at and into your boat. Being on a bouy also gave us chance to test our emergency suitcase generator. It may not be the most efficient power source but we can use it to charge our batteries via our Victron 80A charger and heat our water.
This town made a big impression on us! Though there is less than 3000 people living here, it seems to be full of positive energy (perhaps supported by the huge cruise ships that for a few hours increase the number of citizens with up to 10,000 people).
The first evening we visited the brewery Dokkan, that had some very good beers and friendly service, though Steve found the portion of fish and chips was a little small. For a local pub experience you should go to Edinborg Bistro. Especially after 1 AM the place becomes alive with the young people from town. In this area you can also visit the Westfjords Heritage Museum, where you can see the old buildings, a whaling harpoon and boat and visit the museum. In one of the historic building you can also get a different dining experience at Tjöruhúsið. The fish is great (and the fish soup excellent) and all people are placed together at long tables, even if you are not a big fan of buffets (like us), then you will get an experience.
We had breakfast and lunch a few times at the very cosy and friendly Heimabyggð cafe who serve some excellent toasts, cakes and coffee.
But our favourite place to eat was the newly opened Bubbly Bistro and Wine! We tried (and was surprised by) fried fish skin, a fantastic soup, great fish tacos, delicious baked camembert and tasty friend vegetables. All accompanied by attentive and friendly service. This has been one of the best food experiences and certainly the best service we have had in Iceland.
Ísafjörður harbour feels safe and protected, but is also affected by the strong gust from the wind accelerating down the mountains so at times it can get a little rough. However it has been possible to get out the SUP again for some excercise on less windy days as the large lagoon is well protected.
For Sarah our visit here was a little special because she managed to make contact with many of her Icelandic relatives that she didn’t know existed by asking around town. It was amazing being welcomed by them and getting to know them a little better.
We have spent much of our time here preparing for Greenland and beyond. Taking onboard additional diesel, gasoline and engine oil, some emergency water, an additional 220M of shoreline and stocking up on our food and supplies so we don’t go hungry. We have also checked the boat thoroughly, inspected the rigging, engine, seacocks and attended to anything that needed repairing, adjusting or maintenance.
It’s now time to continue the adventure.
Lovely photos and narratives. Such a contrast to the street violence all over England at the moment. Enjoy the blissful peace and harmony.
Yes looks a bit crazy back in the UK, thanks for the comment:)