Sailing adventures on a Hallberg Rassy 40 in higher latitudes
In Reine, Sarah’s spontaneous run to Reinebringen’s 1566 stone steps delayed the departure, but a chance meeting with Saphir’s owners eased concerns. Motor sailing to Nusfjord, the shallow harbor added excitement. Disappointed by the closed bakery, a walk through the historic town followed. Evading the coastguard, they anchored, and Sarah’s apple cake lifted spirits for an early start.
Eager to leave Bodø and its harbor struggles, they cherished the town’s culinary delights but lamented the amenities. Adjusting to Sarah’s organized chaos, Steve embraced a more vegetarian diet. Seizing a favorable wind across Vestfjorden, they sailed through Sørvær and reveled in a smooth journey, relishing memories as Lofoten emerged, offering grandiose Norwegian beauty.
Excited by sunny weather, they sailed comfortably, eventually marking the Arctic Circle with a memorable celebration. In Bodø, vibrant nightlife, a unique laundry experience, and a thrilling Saltstraumen rib safari featuring massive whirlpools and close encounters with eagles defined their day. A pizza dinner concluded the energizing day for the continued journey.
The past days brought tranquility as they motored towards Igerøya, embracing the sun amid perpetual daylight. Navigating shallow harbors, the landscape hinted at approaching northern realms. Disrupted eating and sleeping schedules ensued. Battling currents, a scenic anchorage was found, allowing a peaceful dinner in the cockpit. A dolphin sighting marked their serene departure.
Smoothly sailing to Brønnøysund, they passed the famous Torghatten rock with its photogenic hole, though clouds obscured the view. Attempting fishing, Steve’s speedy sailing sabotaged the effort. Opting for a restaurant in Brønnøysund, a delightful evening unfolded with Saphir, featuring a four-course dinner, wine, and a jovial return to the boat.
In Rørvik, they met Dutch sailors bound for Svalbard, joining the Northbound boats chat. A late lunch of fresh shrimp led to a grocery run. Despite perpetual daylight, Saphir hosted a ‘sundowner.’ Struggling with weather challenges, they faced rain and motored for another day. Undeterred, they maintained high spirits, enjoying the journey and new connections.
Leaving a cozy anchorage for another day of motoring, they unexpectedly caught good wind, reaching 6 knots. Cooking banana pancakes, the day slowed down with fog, limiting coastline views and requiring vigilance for hidden obstacles and boats. When the wind died after 35 miles, they called it a day in the heavy fog. The next morning, Sarah’s energetic run led to discovering intriguing wood carvings, adding a unique twist to their journey.
Setting off for another day of motoring through the captivating Norwegian channels, the day started with sunshine and mild winds. However, upon reaching the Norwegian Sea, turbulent swells took a toll on Ilse, forcing her to announce she couldn’t continue the trip due to seasickness. A somber final meal marked her departure amid a grey and rainy day.
Setting off early for a day of motoring north through narrow channels in Norway, the absence of wind was tolerable for navigating intricate passages between islands and shallow areas. Enjoying the stunning beauty of the route, the skipper took a break from the ever-cheerful and service-oriented crew. Reaching open water without wind, they opted to return to the channels.
Staying longer than planned in Florø for passport stamps, they enjoyed the marina and amusingly claimed to have found Nessie in Norway. Despite the small town’s closures during public holidays, they played cards and did laundry. Leaving for Frøya, they skipped a rumored restaurant and spent the day hiking and planning the journey north amid Norway’s scenic and foggy coastline.